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St. John and the U.S. Virgin Islands

The U.S. Virgin Islands

Columbus discovered the U.S. Virgin Islands on his second voyage to the New World in 1493. Over the course of time, the islands were ruled successively by the English, Dutch, French, Spanish, Knights of Malta, and the Danes.

There were no permanent settlements on St. John until about 1720. Seeking to grow sugar cane for the rum trade, various European countries laid claim to St. John. Great Britain and Denmark sparred back and forth for control over the tiny island for centuries, and the British had claimed St. John when the Denmark took physical possession in 1684.

In 1733, slaves on St. John revolted against plantation owners and slavery. They were spurred on by the recent arrival of an elite group of African tribal rulers who preferred death to a life in slavery. In 1825, the Danish government built a new courthouse and prison in Cruz Bay. The structure was intended to improve the treatment of slaves on St. John, by making justice a government issue rather than leaving it to individual planters. This building is known as the Battery and is the only government building from the Danish Colonial period still standing. In 1848, Governor General Peter von Scholten abolished slavery in the Danish West Indies.

With the end of slavery came the decline of plantations on St. John and a dramatic drop in population. Between 1850 and 1870 St. John lost about half its population, and by 1913, the population of St. John had dwindled to about 930 persons, all eking out a living through fishing and subsistence farming.

With their former importance an all but forgotten memory, the U.S. government was able to purchase the sleepy islands of St. Croix, St. Thomas and St. John from the Kingdom of Denmark during World War I for a mere $25,000,000 in gold bullion.

By the 1930s, word of the islands' beauty had reached the U.S. mainland and tourism took shape. Further good fortune struck in 1956 when Laurence Rockefeller donated to the Federal Government 5000 acres of land. That acreage today makes up most of what is better known as the Virgin Islands National Park, the nation's twenty-ninth. Through further donations and purchases, the National Park Service today protects some 7200 acres of land and 5600 acres of underwater lands on and around St. John. More than 20 hiking trails cross through the park a mere stone's throw from Horizons Cottage!

The unique culture and history of the USVI is a result of its West African, Danish, Spanish, Irish, Polish, and German heritage. With the many new settlers and slaves brought to the islands since the late 1400s came the rhythms and lyrics of the calypso, cariso, soca, reggae, and steel pan melodies that can be heard throughout the USVI. Virgin Islanders are also very artistic in other media - painting, drawing, sculpture, and photography.

Camille Pissarro, the famous Impressionist, made the USVI his lifelong home. Local culture expresses itself in numerous festivals around the islands and also in its unique cuisine, which has its origins in Africa, Puerto Rico, other West Indian islands, and Europe. Many island recipes originate from times when imports were scarce, but today's typical island fare includes locally grown and raised spices, tropical fruits, root vegetables, and meats. 

One favorite local beverage is maubi (you'll also see it also spelled mauby or maubey), a fermented drink made of ginger root, yeast, herbs, and the bark of the maubi tree, which is brewed both in home stills and by some local companies. Other non-alcoholic specialties include ginger beer, bush tea, soursop juice, and the creamy sea-moss cooler.

Restaurants in the islands feature international cuisine such as French, Japanese, Italian, and Chinese, but also many island specialties such as conch fritters, cactus soup, docouna, goat water, fried plantains, sweet potato pudding,  curried chicken, roasted fig salad, or tortie, a turtle stew with black beans and banana. Lobster, wahoo, grouper, mahi-mahi, tuna, and other daily catches are staple menu items, too. One local specialty dating back to slavery is fungi, best described as a stiff cornmeal mush with okra.

Desserts never fall short, either - try a coconut or guava tart, the local specialty soursop ice cream, made from the juice of the soursop, a member of the custard apple family which has white fruit pulp and a rather astringent, refreshing taste. Other local specialties for those with a sweet tooth include delicious rum cake, bread pudding, stewed gooseberries on a stick, tie-tie sugar cake, dundersloe, or jawbone.

St. John

St. John is the quietest, most non-commercial, relaxed and low key of the three islands. Over fifty percent of St. John is preserved as a national park. The island's legendary beaches are said to be some of the best in the world, while under the water you will find extraordinary diving and snorkeling. Enjoy the slow pace of this Caribbean jewel. Some of the best-known beaches, many of which can be seen on our Gallery page, include:

Salt Pond Bay, home to Horizons Cottage and Captain's Cabin, has a beautiful beach with crystal clear and enticing water. The beach is not touristy and usually sparsely populated, probably because it is 'off the beaten path' and requires a short hike down hill from the parking lot. There's also the opportunity to go hiking around nearby Salt Pond itself. Salt Pond Bay offers excellent snorkeling.
Hawksnest:  This popular beach has crystal blue waters, soft white sand, and excellent snorkeling.  There are two gazebo areas for parties, barbecues, or family outings, as well as changing rooms and full bathroom facilities.
Trunk Bay:  Known to be one of the top ten most beautiful beaches in the world. There's an underwater snorkel trail, a snack bar, gift shop, showers and changing rooms.
Solomon & Honeymoon:  Close to the town of Cruz Bay, Solomon is a small, sandy strip of heaven on Earth. It's also known as St. John's unofficial "nude" beach and has a stunning view of St. Thomas, shady palms, and is a serene getaway. There is no road access, you must visit either of these two beaches by hiking or boat. Honeymoon Beach is just past Solomon and is a little larger and often visited by passing boaters. Take notice: Nude bathing has officially been illegal in the USVI since 1921 and you may be arrested if observed. The same holds true anywhere in the National Park - Park Managers can cite nude bathers and fine them for failing to wear "appropriate attire" on the beach, according to local regulations.
Cinnamon Bay: One of St. John's largest and prettiest beaches, it's also a National Park Campground. Cinnamon boasts full facilities, a restaurant, store,  occasional live entertainment, kayak and windsurf rentals. If you visit on a Sunday, you can join the locals in a friendly game of volleyball.
Caneel Beach: A world-famous white sand beach lined with lush tropical foliage, located at the Caneel Bay Resort. The beach is accessible through the resort's entrance. While open to the public, the resort requests that you check in with the front desk and pick up a day-visitor guide. The beach offers good snorkeling and a water sports concession that rents small watercrafts.
Maho Bay: This long beautiful, white sand beach is close to the road so access is easy, but roadside parking is limited. Boaters often visit Maho on the weekends. The bay is calm and sheltered, and turtles and rays are often spotted. The water is relatively shallow, so Maho is good for children.
Francis Bay: One of St. John's longest beaches and an excellent spot for bird watching. The beach is usually sparsely populated. There is good snorkeling, and there are also picnic tables on this beach.

What's there to do on St. John?                       Go >>

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